Friday, July 31, 2009
We are a young family who had been saving for 8 years to buy our first home, which we did 4 years ago and now we have waited and saved 4 more years to be able to redo the kitchen, which is in very bad disrepair.
I LOVE the look of the granite countertops and would simply love to have some installed, But I'm very concerned as to the scratches, rings and stains I keep hearing about from friends and online.
Our chosen cupboards are a chocolate colored oak and our appliances are white so we had chosen a nice light colored granite to tie the dark brown and white together (Giallo Ornamental) But after reading about the types of stones used to make up the granites (especially the lighter colored granotes) I'm rather concerned.
I played with the unsealed sample I was given and both olive oil and lemon juice did quite a number on the granite, If it were to be sealed would that fix it so it would be impervious to these fluids?
Also do you think this color (Giallo Ornamental) is a wise choice for a family with young kids who will most certainly leave red juice rings on the counters and such?
If not, Is there another type of stone or color of granite you'd recommend instead?
We need to choose within the week...ack...
Thank you very much for your help!!
1. what is the best way to clean the countertops
at the end of the day and for a more thorough weekly cleaning. i'm asumming that eliminating the water marks or whatever they may be is nearly impossible?
2. i have now read that i shouldn't have had the counters sealed (whoops, already did that) and should have used a color enhancer instead. once they've been sealed can they be unsealed so i can apply the color enhancer? and how will this change the staining factor?
3. a contractor once told me that windex with ammonia will remove a sealer. is this true and will it harm the stone?
4. for future, if i want that matte black look what stone is recommended? i originally wanted slate but heard that was a maintenance nightmare. so i chose an apparently equal nightmare!
thanks so much. now why didn't anybody else tell me not to go honed???
We are trying to decide on the best of these three materials for our kitchen countertop - assuming we can find them all in roughly the same price range. We don't really like the shiny surface of granite, but are tempted by the durability and ease of maintenance with it. We've also heard bad things about honed granite. Quartz seems like an okay choice, but pricey for something that isn't even entirely natural stone. slate intrigues us for its matte appearance, but we aren't sure of how it compares to granite and quartz in terms of maintenance (scratches, chips, etc.)any thoughts or suggestions would be really welcome.
1. I've been reading (after purchase) that using limestone in the home is not recommended. I just purchased over 2000 sq ft. for the floor, including kitchen and bathrooms I was under the impression, however, that all limestones are not created equally. I purchased one from the Turek limestone collection (sold by Marble Systems) called "Golden Ruby". Know anything about this particular limestone? Should I slash my wrist now?
2. Looks like the best thing I could do with it would be to have installer clean with muriatic acid to take some polish off -- is that correct?
3. What about butt joints vs. a small joint? What is recommended? (I read something that made me think there was something not-so-great about butt joints.) It's an 18" x 18" limestone.
4. I'm considering honed or brushed Atlantic Black "granite" for kitchen counter. In general, it seems that this could be a maintenance nightmare, but I have a few questions. What would be the "best" finish? Honed or brushed? It is warned to "enrich" rather than to use and impregnator sealer. I'm confused by this because there are "enrichment sealers". Our neighbors used an enriching sealer on their travertine and we left red wine on it all night and there was no stain. Anything wrong with using an enrichment-type sealer on Atlantic Black honed/brushed?
Thursday, July 30, 2009
and imperfections but only when its wet. I heard about acid washing. and i
tried it. i think it helped but how long should i leave the acid on and
should i seal the stone after i get the desired "natural look?"
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Wednesday, July 29, 2009
My husband & I just installed travertine marble floors and they are not
polished, they actually have a matte finish. However, they have a haze on them. I'm assuming the installer did not seal the tile before he installed
it and the grout was soaked into the pourous tile. How can I repair this?
I read one entry that mentioned a professional floor refinisher, however, I
don't want a glossy finish. I'd like to know if the haze can be buffed out
or if we are stuck with a dull surface on our tile. Again, it is a matte
finish, but the haze makes it very dull and uneven. You can actually see
"swoosh" marks that look like grout left behind from the grout tool. Thanks
for your help. Sabrina
I installed black tumbled marble in my kitchen about a year ago. The grout
is a dark gray. The floor is now very dull now and the grout is especially
bad in certain areas - white/chalky. I'm wondering what I can use to help
revitalize both? **The grout is a particular problem. If it were all
uniformly dark gray the floor would probably look much better overall.
A little background. An independent "professional" installed the tile.
Afterward, he put down an enhancing sealer (can't remember the brand, but it
was sold by Floor and Décor and used on the display tile that I chose) to
give the stone a deep rich look. But -- he didn't apply it correctly. He
put it down thick and left it to dry. I'm not a tile installer so I never
questioned this- I thought he knew what he was doing. Well, it was like
someone melted a candle on the floor - awful! Sticky, waxy - just a mess.
Turns out that the excess was supposed to be wiped up! Of course, he
wouldn't return my calls to come back and fix the problem. The company
that sold the enhancer told me the only thing to do was strip the floor. I
did this as best I could with a brand called TileLab. Afterward, I applied
the enhancing sealer again following the directions. Floor looked okay, but
never as deep and rich as the display. Anyway, the grout started looking
spotty 6 months later. Not everywhere -- just randomly around the floor. I
have tried cleaning it, putting down more sealer, etc. Nothing seems to
work. What causes this chalky look? Is it related to being stripped at
all? I was assured this wouldn't hurt the tile. Would love some advice on
the grout and on ways to pep up the marble. Thank you. -Teresa
or two of slate design. Will these tiles hold up well in a shower?
If not, would they be satisfactory as a backsplasharound a whirlpool
tub and a vanity?
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
I am currently trying to redo my bathroom and having some difficulty with stone selections. We are removing the tub and putting in a walk in shower - so we were looking to use a natural stone (i.e. travertine) throughout with a touch of slate for contrast. We were hesitant to use granite/marble since they are slippery and using them in the shower would definitely be dangerous. So, what are your thoughts on using travertine for the shower & bathroom floors?? Do you have any recommendations for a different stone or combination of stones??
Thank you so much for your help!!
Monday, July 27, 2009
On top of that I applied a thin coat of J25 Arcylic sealer by Dayton Hudson.
I am satisfied that the penetrating sealer did its job because there is no efflouresence. However, the J25 causes me trouble because I think it's bonding with the de-icing salts that our custodian has to put on the labyrinth when it's snowy. The lab is only 2 years old now and its color has faded from deep red sandstone to a chalky pink. In time it may look a shirt cardboard. Look at the web address I gave, you'll see.
The good news for now is that the lab seems to match the color of the surrounding low walls made of chiseled sandstone --- still I want to know how to strip away that built up salt junk.
I am not keen on using acetone all over the lab for several reasons. I have tried vinegar with no progress.
By the way, power washing could make me nervous -- the perimeter of the labyrinth is composed of engraved stones. I could not give them the full dose of power pressure as the rest of the lab.
I would be most pleased if you come back with a terrific chemical solution!
Eurostile>Anne Farr Butterfield.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
HOW DOES ONE KNOW WHETHER THE GRANITE IS CRACKED OR HAS A FISSURE?
We had a granite countertop (three-quarter-inch thickness) installed last week and I noticed what I believe is a crack between the undermount sink and the front edge of the countertop -- a distance of about 5 inches. The granite is Delacattus and has a waterfall edge, which consists of a second piece of granite, about two inches wide, glued to and set back slightly from the granite top. The crack is through the thickness of the granite top, but has not affected the bottom layer of the waterfall edge. The installer says this is a natural fissure in the stone. However, I believe it is a crack because it is all the way through the granite and is very irregular in shape. After I complained, the installer put a product he described as "like Crazy Glue" over the crack and rubbed it in. He said it would penetrate through the granite. It seems odd that a normal fissure would require a glue-like penetrating substance. Based on this description, do you think the granite is cracked or that this is a normal fissure?
Thanks for your advice.
My name is Chris Oberle. I have a nasty stain problem
on a granite floor in my bathroom. The toilet was
leaking from the wax seal. You can see where this is
going. It was a slow leak so it appeared little by
little. Last night I fixed the leak, but it left a
stain around the outside of the base of the toilet
that's about 1 in thick. Its dark, looks like a water
stain, but it hasn't dried after 24 hours. Most of the
leakage was water, but it was mixed with the black
fungus that grows in the wax ring. Gross huh? Sorry.
Will a hydrogen peroxide poultice work?
Thank you kindly!
Saturday, July 25, 2009
We purchased a new home 4 mths back and had Uba Tuba Granite countertops installed in the kitchen.
wipe off any spills almost immediately. Occasionally, we use dishwashing
soap and water to clean them to get rid of any additional dirt that may have stuck to the countertops. Is this the right way to clean Uba Tuba granite countertops?
2. Someone used Ceramabryte to clean the countertops and now the Ceramabryte
seems to have gotten lodged in some places and the granite seems to have lost some of it's shine. We used soap and water again to remove the Ceramabryte and also tried Windex to restore the shine of the granite but
some of the Ceramabryte is still lodged in places and the granite seems to
have lost it's shine. Is there any way to get the remaining Ceramabryte out that is still lodged in the small nicks on the countertop? How can we polish it and restore its shine?
3. What are the regular care instructions to be taken with Uba Tuba granite
Hi, I just had absolute black honed granite countertops installed in my new kitchen and am having trouble removing water marks, smudges, etc and it always looks blotchy. I believe the installers applied one coat of a water based sealer on the counters after installing them. From what I've been reading here, it sound as though absolute black, honed or not, does NOT and should not be sealed. Is this the case even with regard to water based sealers? I'm not sure how to care for this granite so that I can clean it easily. Thanks very much,
I am ordering granite today or tomorrow. I was debating between absolute
black and cambrian black in 2cm for our kitchen. From what I have read, I
definately will not be ordering honed. I read in one of the threads that
cambrian black is a great choice for kitchens, but am wondering what its'
strong points are. Also, you said I won't need to seal cambrain black, but I
am wondering if it will lose its' shine after awhile. My other question is
if is is more black or grey. Our local granite shop only had a small sample
of the cambrian black, and it did look a bit lighter than the absolute
black. We don't want drab grey counters. Please give me any imput! Thanks
so much! Kate
Friday, July 24, 2009
Thursday, July 23, 2009
I was reading your page and I installed granite (Blue Pearl) in my kitchen. I am pretty confused about the care of my countertops. I need to know if my dishwasher is allowed to use that contain:
Anionic or nonionic surfactants
Viscosity control agents
Can You help me with this ?
I would be grateful of your advice in respect of the following problem:
I left a bottle of windolene on the granite work surface. A medium patch of the granite has not discoloured/slightly bleached - it has gone grey/slightly lighter colour to the rest of the work surface although it still feels very smooth.
When washing the surface with soapy water it disappears, but when it dries it stands out.
Is there any product or advice that you can provide to restore the patch?
Senior Business Reviewer
I have two questions:
1/ I will have "Black Galaxy" granite countertop installed soon. I just wonder if the stains visibly shown on the black top. Is it true that dark color of granite will show less stains? I know the water stain will be gone by itself. Does it need to seal it and what do you recommend? Can I use the "granite care kit" sold on line for my countertop. They sell sealers, stain cleaners, etc..
2/ Also, I will have "Black Galaxy" tiles in my foyer? Does it need to be sealed just like my countertop? Can I use the "granite care kit" as I mentioned above?
Thanks in advance for your information,
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
We had granite countertops installed two years ago. After installation
the company applied three coats of mineral oil and then sealed it with
Mira seal. The counters always have an oily film on them that will not
clean off. I have cleaned them with acetone which does clean them but
after using them for a while I have the same problem. I was wondering
if I should use a stronger stripper and if so what do I do with the
counters after they have been stripped. I would appreciate any advice
you could give me.
I found you online while researching problems with absolute black granite and was hoping you could provide me with some much-needed insight.
We installed absolute black granite last August and have had trouble with it since it was installed. It has been making rings, scratching and cracking-even a basket with no moisture on it left a permanent ring. After working closely with our installer and supplier, we have had several treatments on it (everything from stripping and reapplying the sealer to blow torches to secret sauce with a steel wool sander) to no avail. It has been deemed not repairable.
Now we are faced with ripping up the kitchen and installing new granite. Our current absolute black is from
My husband and I are very concerned about using absolute black again - from anywhere. I would appreciate any insight or recommendations you could make.
Thanks so much for your help.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
I'm doing a beautiful high end kosher kitchen in Toronto, Canada. I will
have two dishwashers, two sinks, two counter areas etc - all to separate
milk and meat food preparation.
What is the hardest, most durable, most longlasting, easiest to care for
material for counters?
I have heard there are differences between polished and regular granite, and
between sealed and unsealed counters. What is your advice/
Is soapstone durable and nonporous enough to warrant a serious look?
I would appreciate your recipe on acetone poulticing for olive oil stains
The decorator installed my gorgeous VOLGA BLUE granite in my kitchen last month for $7,200. After her tile installers amateurishly attempted to place my glass tile backsplash (counter to the ceiling) and failed, I noticed 3 cracks in front and back of my sink. I think they stood on or put pressure on the narrow ledges of the sink and cracked it. I told them to leave. The decorator said these fissures were natural fissures and were already present before installation but I doubt it. Her fabricator put some clear yellow liquid into the crack and it hardened but I can still see and feel the crack with my fingernail. I purchased the expensive polisher ($250) which requires water hook-up and I plan to put more of this colored epoxy resin into this hairline crack. I also purchased the pigment, resin and hardener to be mixed. Do you think I can ever get it totally smooth or should I return the unused polisher with all the polishing pads? I would like to try to do this but someone told me this has to be grinded out with a blade and then filled. This sounds too drastic. Please, please advise.
The decorator refunded me the tiling job fee of $700 but refuses to replace the cracked granite because she says it's natural fissure (but it's NOT).
Bamboozled in Texas
Monday, July 20, 2009
My wife was told that if we used black granite on our countertop, that every time she wiped the counter she would have to dry and buff the counter to keep it looking nice. I disagree, I believe that a good quality sealer will make the buffing un-necessary unless she wanted to really make it shine, who is right. In advance, Thank You! Clyde
I just installed a Jerusalem Gold floor in my entrance hall bathroom. The entrance hall floor, installed about 80 years ago, is set with Jerusalem Gold limestone and China Black Marble. The old floor is gorgeous, with a rich patina. However, the new bathroom floor is not a rich, gold color--it is much lighter. Is there any way that I can darken the stone to match the original floor? As an experiment, I took a cut-off of the new stone and rubbed some light oil on it. The oil brought out all of the rich gold tones in the stone--matching the original. However, I am reluctant to oil the entire new floor. Has anybody had experience with this?
Sunday, July 19, 2009
kitchen cabinets. I would like to have granite
countertops installed, and I have a couple of
questions regarding what a granite installer likes to
see when he comes out to measure for the job. First,
I intend to use adjustable leg levelers instead of a
platform for the cabinet boxes. Will the legs support
the wieght of the granite tops? Second, I installed a
bay window in my kitchen a few years ago, and the
plywood base for the window is 35.75" above the
installed floor level. I know the standard countertop
height is 36", so I'm wondering if the granite that I
want to extend into the bay window could be milled
thinner so as to allow a standard counter top height?
Third, I would like to know if 5/8" plywood would be
OK to use as a support for the granite. In my
thinking, this would allow 1/8" of the granite
countertop edge to extend beyond the top of the
cabinet faceframe, thus hiding the plywood better.
Thanks in advance for any response.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
I recently had "Black Beauty" polished granite countertops installed in my kitchen along with a Blanco Silgranit sink (95% granite 5% acrylic polymer).
What products and frequency of use do you recommend for cleaning the granite countertop? I was considering the following:
MB-5 QT Marble, Granite & More Spray Cleaner
MB-4 QT Stone & More Impregnating Sealer
Should I also use the MB-13 QT Stone Polish? If yes, how often or under what conditions?
Please confirm or recommend additional or different products. Also, approximately how many square feet will 1 quart cover?
Lastly, something strange happened with the Blanco Silgranit sink. The granite fabricator polished the granite countertop seam (which occurs at the sink) and the polish water (and whatever polishing additive he was using) ran down into the sink. The sink now has lightly etched stains in a pattern consistent with the polish water running down into the sink. I tried cleaning it several times with several different cleaners and scotchbrite and nothing seems to help even a little (nor does it get any worse either). These Silgranit sinks are manufactured to have a matte finish, but now the finish is even more dull and lackluster to the point that I am no longer pleased with the aesthetics. The fabricator (who also installed the sink) had no ideas. I called Blanco and they said to clean it with Barkeepers friend and coat it with mineral oil or olive oil. I cleaned it and coated it with olive oil but the "run marks" are still visible although the oil did give the aesthetics of the sink a boost. However, when the oil coating goes away in a few days it looks the same as before. Would mineral oil be any better than olive oil? Obviously, I cannot be the first one to encounter this problem. I would appreciate any ideas that you may have to rectify this situation.
Thanks in advance,
Friday, July 17, 2009
I have a rough granite floor in my kitchen - 18"x18" tiles, predominantly rough but with a polished design over part of them. It is quite an attractive floor, though very impractical from a cleaning perspective. It is scrubbed weekly with vinegar and soapy water, and we have tried some basic cleaners but it is becoming quite discolored in areas of high traffic and spills. Is there any way to clean it back to something approaching its original, uniform appearance, or should we resign ourselves to letting it "season".
Thursday, July 16, 2009
love the very dark Blue Pearl Granite for the Countertop with Cheerywood
finished cabinets. Do you have, any recomendations on the use of Blue Pearl
and best finish considerations. I see that you do not recommend sealing
granite - should that also be the case for Blue Pearl?
I have a kitchen island that is made out of old pine with a granite countertop. At the time it was installed, the brackets were not yet ready. They too are pine and were being custom made. We are now ready to attach them and my trim carpenter and contractor are arguing about what would be sufficient. The "natural stone people" have told the contractor that these wood brackets could be "siliconed" to the granite and affixed with hardware to the pine island. My trim person says that silicone will not bond properly to the wood and that these wood brackets must be affixed to the granite by boring holes into the underside of the granite. One is obviously easier to do than the other. Is the former going to work? ABR, Jackson, MS
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Do I need to seal the Caesarstone or will it discolor from the use of products such as hair spray or cleansers? Are bullnoses necessary or can I leave the edges square? What do most people do?
Also, when I'm finished with this project, I will start in my kitchen, and that will open another can o' worms. For example, is cat urine considered acidic? Once or twice a year, one of my cats will decide to select a spot on the kitchen floor to reflect his displeasure in life, presumably because he has not yet figured out how to make a martini. I am not going to give away the cat, so I need to find a stone solution for my kitchen floor that would not react to cat urine.
Elizabeth, Northern California
I have a prefab black granite bathroom counter top (Romala Stone Inc., Speckled Black). In the 7 years since I installed it, I have only used Tile Lab Marble and Stone cleaner. Every 6 months or so, I've "polished" it with Tile Lab Stone Gloss. However, I've noticed in the past few years that it just won't keep that wet look it had when it was new. Is it possible the products have left a haze on my stone? If so, is there a way to bring back the wet look?
Category Management Assistant
Warner Home Video
I am installing 870 Sq ft of Blue Volga Granite
in my living room area. I want it installed
butt to butt so it looks closest to an even slab
without grout lines.
One installer told be he either has to use an 1/8 inch
grout joint if the tile is installed on a straight
he has to install the tile on a brick pattern with no
grout joint, the reason is because the granite is
never manufactured perfectly in size, therefore the
grout lines would not be aligned perfectly, but if he
installs the granite on a brick design with no grout
joints the discrepancies will not be noticed.
What is your opinion. aesthetically will it look
ok in a brick design or better to do straight design
with 1/8 grout?
Where can I see your response?
If butt to butt is not a good idea, can you explain.
My sister has butt to butt travertine which
my email is email@example.com
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
We just had Black Absolute Granite countertops installed in our kitchen. Could you please let me know if the granite needs to be sealed? Also, there is a dull spot on our island and the installer said it needs to be buffed with very fine steel wool. Is this the correct solution? What do you suggest for cleaning products?
Monday, July 13, 2009
We just installed Light Emperador Marble/Granite in our bathroom and Emerald Pearl Granite in our kitchen.
1) Do they need to be sealed?
Michell C. Delmonte-Synnott
Wow, awesome web site! Ive learned so much more from your website in the last hour, than I did researching granite counters for 2 months at local stores and fabricators.
We have what I assume is "granite", its gray and black with moderate movement and ruby red garnets throughout. Its called somoa lite. when you run your hand across the top, you can feel cracks, crevices etc around the garnets especially. I wonder if those garnets are prone to crumble, dislodge etc, especially around the sink cut out? Also, although Im not having any trouble with water stains, should I reseal? Weve had it almost 4 months and the installers supposedly sealed it. Of course, I already have an "oops", I left a wrapped stick of butter out overnite and it bled through. The stain, untreated, has lifted a lot, but some does remain. Id like to try your poultice method with the acetone if it's not too late, its been a month! I realize I have to reseal the area and maybe youll say to do the entire top after anyways, but I assume even if it fails, I wont do any further harm? Again, Im assuming this is granite and should be sealed every 6 months anyways? Lastly, what daily cleaner would you recommend? Thankyou so much. Lisa
Sunday, July 12, 2009
I just had new granite countertops installed in my kitchen and on three vanities in the bathrooms. All of the countertops were done in Butterfly Green. I didn't find your site until after installation. Is Butterfly Green a porous granite? Is it "real" or as I've read on some of the other questions, another type of stone being sold as real granite? The installer did an initial sealant twice during install and when I asked him about future care, he said they would not need sealants again, just use a granite cleaner occasionally to keep them shiny. Is this correct? Also, I selected the granite slabs from a yard myself and when I did I selected the thick granite (1 3/8 inch I believe). Now I am wondering (too late I guess to do anything about it), if there was any real reason for spending the extra money for the money. Would I have been better off to buy the thinner slabs? I had thought I had gotten a really good price for the slabs and the install but now I am worried.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
SKEW MATRIX LIMITED
27a, McCarthy Street
Suite 302, Onikan
Hi - I have a black foreplace surround with no mantle. I don't want to rip
up/take out the slate but am ready for a different look. Can I: 1) paint
the slate with apprpriate primer/paint? 2) put tile or marble over the
slate? Thank you in advance for your response.
Friday, July 10, 2009
I am installing a 3 piece lavatory set on a new black granite countertop in
the bathroom. The faucet set did not come with any gaskets for the spout or
the hot and cold handle to seat onto the granite top. Can I use plumber's
putty to seal under the spout and hot and cold handles?
installing new sink, my husbank used a hammer to pry the old sink out.
Unfortunatley, this put three 2 inch horizontal cracks in our granite at
each point he used the hammer. This is right in front of the sink and you
can feel them with your fingernail. Is there anything we can do to seal the
crack or lessen its appearance or protect it from getting dirt in it and
making the cracks more noticable? I don't think they will spread because
they are horizontal, but my husband thinks we can/should do nothing because
it's not so noticeable. I'm not as sure because I worry what could happen
in the future with it looking more noticeable...II read something on your
site about epoxy, is this an option? Any help you could give would be
PS How often should you seal granite?
Lori from Pasadena, MD
Thursday, July 9, 2009
countertops. In just a few weeks we developed dulling or cloudiness
surrounding, approx. 1/2 inch around, the sink faucett and more, approx. 1
inch, around the soap dispenser. The soap dispenser was a litlle loose and
I figure that water from countertop wipe ups might have been sliding down
the drill holes and getting into the granite from the raw inside of the
drill holes. Perhaps our somewhat hard Connecticut well water is causing
the dullness. Is this a stain? Can you fix it from the surface? How? Any
help/advice will be appreciated.
Tel : +86-595-86068278
I have been searching the web for a knowledgeable person on problems with Granite surfaces and was very impressed by your knowledge. I have to give you a little background first. We have new granite counter tops that are in the process of being installed in the bathrooms. About 2 years ago we had granite counter tops put in the kitchen by a different installer. I believe the granite came from the same supplier, Capco in
My question is when I look at the new counter tops in the bathrooms they don't appear to be completely polished compared to the kitchen counter tops. It appears that there is still an appearance of a grain (where it is not completely filled in), somewhat like a spider pattern throughout the counter tops. When I asked the contractor about this and showed him the difference, he said they just needed to be sealed. When he put a sealer on it (sealer & cleaner) they seemed to be better, but no as good as the kitchen. The contractor also said to do that every two weeks. I said I didn't have to do that with the kitchen granite and he said that it's stone and they differ.
I think there was a problem or incomplete work done with the finish when they did the counter tops at the factory? We picked a slab out at the store in both cases. Any help or response is much appreciated. Hopefully I have described the concern I have properly.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
which is of the Quartz family.
I recently cut a large piece of Petrified wood to make a couple of
headstones ( 14" x 22" x 4" thick ) for my Mother and Grandmother. There are numerous fractures that probably should be sealed since the stone will be out in the cold and wet weather in the NorthWestern U.S.
What would you recommend to seal the surface and keep water out of the fractures?? Thanks, John
Hi, I just moved into an apartment that has dark-green granite countertops and floors in the kitchen. I washed my dishes with Palmolive Lemon Detergent and about an hour later I noticed this white powdery residue on the granite around the sink- can you help me get rid of this? Endless scrubbing hasn't helped.
Travertines result from hot spring water percolating up through underground limestone. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind layers of dissolved limestone and other minerals, giving it its banded appearance. The characteristic holes in travertine are the result of trapped gas bubbles; as the gas escapes, crystals form in the cavities. Yellowstone Park, for example, with its geysers and mineral springs, produces travertine. Natural travertine will have voids on the surface, and these voids are filled with cementatious or resin based filler during fabrication. In the case of cross-cut travertine, some of the holes will be near the face but will not actually window out of the face. Since these voids are not exposed during the fabrication process, they are not filled. Once in service, the thin shell of travertine separating the void from the face is not strong enough to support traffic, especially heels. The stone will "pop" out at these locations, exposing the previously undetected void. This is an expected occurrence in travertine. The holes simply need to be refilled with a similar type and color of filler material as was used in the factory. Depending upon the size and frequency of holes, this procedure may need to be repeated several times. It is analogous to a "break-in" period for the floor. Travertines are generally light-colored beiges and tans, though there are some beautiful, colored travertines that have resulted from other minerals dissolved by hot water underground.
Travertines range in hardness from 4-5 on the ten-point MOHS scale (diamonds are 10; granites are ±7), making it perfect for most areas of the home. Care does need to be taken, however when choosing material for a high-traffic area or kitchen countertops which might be subject to etching substances. Like any stone, travertine should be sealed with a penetrating sealer to prevent stains from penetrating into the stone
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
stains on it around the faucet. I was afraid to use something like
LimeAway on the
granite in case it ruined the surface.
How can I get the hard water stains off??